Category Archives: Tips

Reptile Bathing

Surely everyone loves a nice warm bath? I know I do! So what about our reptiles? Well some love it, some hate it and some can take it or leave it, a bit like humans I guess. Not only can baths be relaxing and fun, but they get us clean. They also hydrate our skin which is particularly useful for reptiles if they are having issues with shedding their skin. Also they can help reptiles poop if they are constipated, as they seem to suddenly have the urge to go once in the water (luckily I don’t think this applies to humans!).

It should be noted that reptiles don’t need baths, its just depends what your particular reptile wants and needs, but they can be helpful, and also some reptiles just love them! If you want to bath them regularly, once a week is a good general rule.

So, when running your reptile a bath please make sure the temperature is right. No one hates a cold bath more than cold blooded reptiles, but also make sure its not too hot either to hurt their delicate skin – it should be just slightly warm, like a lovely warm ocean temperature.

Like us, your reptile will probably want to stretch out in their bath, and maybe have a swim (I wish!), but you could use a sink for smaller reptiles.

Now don’t fill it too high, it should be up to about their chest height, so that they can comfortably keep their head above the water while resting on the bottom, but enough to swim if they want to.

When their bath is ready, gently help them into the water, extra slowly if they are new to bathing and a bit apprehensive. Don’t leave them unattended as they may hurt themselves or escape, just enjoy some quality time with them.

After a bath of say 5-10 mins, or longer if they are still loving it, gently help them out. Note: reptiles don’t need towels,  just let them dry naturally.

Finally make sure to clean the bath or sink thoroughly, especially if they have pooped in there (unless you really hate the person next in the queue for a bath! But seriously please don’t do this), reptiles carry lots of bacteria that can be bad for us humans. Make sure that you also rinse off any cleaning products very thoroughly, and probably best to leave it a day before you let a reptile bath in it again to make sure its all gone.

Well that’s it I think. Wishing you lots of great bath times!

Share Button

Buying a Reptile Responsibly

Reptiles are beautiful, fascinating, amazing creatures.  However, they require very specific living conditions, and new reptile keepers need to make sure they fully understanding how to care for them properly.

Becoming a reptile keeper is a big responsibility.  There are many things to consider to ensure that a reptiles needs can be met:

  • Size and Lifespan

    • How long can they live?

    • How big will it grow?

  • Cost

    • Food

    • Electricity (heat and lighting)

    • Cage and furnishings

    • Regular replacement of light bulbs (to ensure sufficient UV, usually every 6 months)

    • Vet bills

  • Habitat

    • The reptile needs somewhere to live that is as close as possible to their natural environment

    • Conditions must be monitored carefully to ensure they are always within correct ranges (temperature gages at different locations, humidity gage)

      • Heating (reptiles cannot regulate their own body temperatures, and unless it is warm enough they cannot digest food at all and immunity will fall)

        • it is important to provide a heat gradient (hot end and cool end of living space) so the reptile can warm up or cool down when they need to

      • Sunlight/UV Lighting (reptiles require sufficient UV or will get calcium deficient which leads to severe and painful bone problems)

      • Humidity (often high humidity required)

    • Is the reptile nocturnal? (will need a hiding area for the day)

    • Does it naturally live in trees? (will need at least one branch to perch on)

    • Where do they naturally sleep? (use bedding that wont hurt the reptile, and is easily cleaned)

  • Cage

    • Can you buy a suitable cage?

    • Do you need to make one?

      • What materials do you need?

      • How will you make it safe?

    • What size does it need to be? (Reptiles can grow very rapidly and will need larger cages to suit)

  • Food

    • What do they eat in the wild?

    • Do they catch live prey?

  • Water

    • Fresh water provided daily

  • Cleaning

    • Cage needs regular cleaning (day to day, and deep cleaning)

  • Exercise/interaction

    • Do you have time to spend interacting with a reptile? To let it out its cage for some exercise?

  • Vet

    • Need a local vet who treats reptiles (well cared for reptiles are resilient, but they can still get sick)


Share Button

Looking for Mini Mealworms Right Now?


Mini Mealworms

Mini mealworms are the larvae of the tenerbrio molitar beetle. Their diet is vegetarian which means that they are safe to feed to animals and birds without passing on the potentially fatal diseases present in meat fed larvae such as maggots.

Mini mealworms consist of 48% crude protein and 40% fat.

Mini mealworms are clean, odourless and relatively inexpensive livefood, rich in protein and easy to store. Mini mealworms are popular as livefood for many species of cage birds and garden birds.

These tender young mini mealworms are excellent rearing food for many species of birds and are also readily taken by many small to medium-sized reptiles and amphibian. Mini mealworms are removed from their feeding containers at an early stage in their development but compare just as well with ‘regular’ mini mealworms in terms of storage qualities and shelf life.

At 22C the mini mealworms will grown to full size in probably as little as three weeks. If stored at above 22 C mini mealworms will do what comes naturally and pupate very quickly. Up to 500g of mini mealworms can be stored in our own storage box, which has a mesh bottom to provide ventilation and a reversible lid to capture waste (which makes great organic fertilizer).

Mini mealworms are taken straight from the breeding rooms where they are then preparing for sale to ensure maximum freshness. Only a breeder has such total control over product and is thus able to guarantee both quality and freshness.

Mini mealworms are available in clear plastic tubs for easy feeding and storage or you can buy mini mealworms in bulk sacks which is more economical.

We stock the following mealworms

The Livefoods Direct team is highly skilled and committed to maintaining a high level of quality and service, giving you, the customer, the best deals possible.

Orders placed before Noon Monday to Thursday will be shipped the same day. Take a look at our website and buy mini mealworms today.

Share Button

Are Brown Crickets Super Crickets?


brown cricketsBrown (banded) crickets proved themselves to be far more nutritious than their rival Black Crickets and Silent Crickets in recent laboratory tests. Brown (banded) crickets were proved to have a higher calorific value and to contain higher levels of protein than both their rivals.

Why would anyone want to pay more? Brown (banded) crickets represent a genuine, honest, superb deal for livefood buyers. Probably the best value for money on the UK internet today. Maybe we should call them Super Crickets?

The tests came out as follows:

Brown Crickets tests

Current Price per 1,000 large crickets: £12.00 (brown crickets)  £14.92  (silent crickets)  £25.33 (black crickets)

All prices are inclusive of VAT and postage.

Tests were performed by Foodtest laboratories on behalf of Livefoods Direct on April 26th 2010.

Each and every week throughout the year Livefoods Direct breeds a minimum of 800,000 Banded Crickets. Banded Crickets provide a high nutritional diet for Birds and reptiles. Crickets are nurtured on a very high fibre diet consisting of Progrub; it is a mix of our unique brand of ingredients. Banded Crickets (Gryllodes Sigullatus) are the biggest selling Brown Crickets that we farm; they are native to Tropics – India. Banded Crickets are probably the weakest Brown cricket; they cannot withstand cooler temperatures so struggle to arrive in good condition after their journey in the harsher winter months. Banded Crickets have an amazing growth rate, from hatching out of its egg pod to being able to reproduce itself the Banded Crickets will take 35-42 days. That is only if the Banded Crickets are kept in ideal conditions.

Branded Crickets are available in the following 6 sizes

Banded Crickets can be purchased in different sizes, different packs depending on how many, and how big you the customer require. The Banded Crickets are packed in prepack tubs or you can purchase the Banded crickets in bulk sacks.

Banded crickets must be kept in a cool dry place between 16-20°C, Banded Crickets that have been travelling overnight, by courier or postal service may need to be transferred on arrival depending on the quantities. Using a tank with a tight-fitting well-ventilated lid to stop them from getting too warm. Banded Crickets need perching areas these can be provided for the Banded Crickets in the form of cardboard egg cartons. This is also to reduce stress to the Banded Crickets, which will reduce cannibalism. A small saucer of progrub can also be placed in with the Banded Crickets.

Fresh carrot or cabbage leaves be provided, ensure that any carrot or cabbage is washed and that any pesticide trace is very low. Feed the Banded Crickets daily, any uneaten old leaves should be removed from the Banded Cricket habitat.

The Livefoods Direct team is highly skilled and committed to maintaining a high level of quality and service, giving you, the customer, the best deals possible.

Orders placed before Noon Monday to Thursday will be shipped the same day. Take a look at our website and buy banded crickets today.

Share Button